Paris…

Every good holiday starts with a nap :) . After staying out a bit too late with Friends in London on Friday and rising to take Saturday morning’s first train from London to Paris, we were exhausted. First things first, a nap…

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Upon waking, we walked about town to get our bearings — staying in Le Marais, we ventured to Place de Vosges — a scenic square nearby, toured the shops and boutiques in Le Marais’s backstreets, had heavenly gelato (you pick two flavors and they use small tools to make the scoops into a flower shape. Gorgeous! And Delicious!), walked to Notre Dame and the island towns — and then back to the hotel before heading up for a beautiful view upon Montmartre (a chapel atop a hill in Paris) for a little wine and cheese and people watching at sunset.

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After crepes for dinner, we headed to the nearby Cabaret district to take a look at the Moulin Rouge exterior and ended the night with a late call to the Arc de Triomphe. What an amazing sunset (at nearly 10:15!). It was a long, but relaxed day in Paris and primed us well for the fun to come. Those who traveled with us years ago will be surprised that our morning routine’s a bit more leisurely these days :) No more dawn to dusk tourist ventures followed by dinner and games until the early hours. These days, we travel as if we’ll return many times. This way, you don’t feel you have to pack too much in… you just go, get a feel for the place and enjoy being a local for a few days (well almost… a local who likes nice dinners, galleries and hops from cafe to cafe for lattes :) )

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This was especially true of this trip. On Sunday (13th), we grabbed pastries and headed to the nearby square again (Le Marais). No one does pastries like the French… so delicate and rich. My French colleague once brought in a homemade pastry that was just like a huge almond croissant for the office to share. How they make these things, I haven’t a clue. But I am SO glad they do!

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Next up, we headed to the Orangerie and Tuilleries Gardens (both recommendations from my client who lived in France for a couple years). Great recommendations. Monet’s waterlillies live in the Orangerie and it would seem that the place was specially fitted for the works. The huge canvases are stretched into the ovular walls. They’re huge. But, it’s easy to see why the works were so controversial for the day…just as some debate the merits of modern art these days, Monet’s waterlillies don’t look like much when placed next to the old classics from Rembrandt. They’re so different!

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At the Tuilleries Gardens, we watched as kids raced tiny toy sail boats on a reflecting pool… such a cool idea. There’s no remote. They’re kid and wind powered. Brilliant! And next to the Musee d’Orsay for G’s favorite — Van Gogh. Starry Night… the hay stacks… a crazy haunted house… at least two self portraits… incredible collection. We were pleased — and we’re still struck by his style. The patterns help bring you into the painting. If only he had lived longer — imagine how his work would have moved and changed had he lived another 50 years.

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And, my favorite part. Frosty drinks on a boat docked on the Seine before heading to an amazing dinner with the BEST butter we’ve EVER had. We took the label and nearly stole the spare butter. Seriously good butter. Not to mention the actual meal. Writing this, I want some now… hmmm… and after dinner we headed out to the local concert and to the Pompiers (local parties put on by the firehouses as a fundraiser the night before Bastille Day — they’re like huge frat parties). And wow do they come with a line. have to admit that I felt a bit old standing in line as the 20 somethings ran for the cheap Chinese noodle shop for a quick fix of starch before heading into the Pompiers… they kept asking us to save their spot in line. At this moment 30 felt old :) .

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Bastille Day is the French equivalent of 4th July in the States. Parades… fireworks… picnics… lounging in the park. With this in mind, we planned to wake up and see the military parade along the city’s main promenade. But, luckily for us, each course of the parade visited us outside our hotel window instead… first the brass band at 7:30am. Followed by the horse guard (there were SO many). We had no idea that would happen and were a bit surprised… I think the band’s tunes wove themselves into my dreams somehow… the perfect alarm clock. If only we hadn’t gotten up to take photos and then rolled back over. We woke again just in time to watch the parade on TV and then see the air brigade fly by our window with colored smoke tails.

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This time, more pastries, but off to the Park by Notre Dame — and, as luck would have it the end of the military parade flew overhead as we were enjoying our tarts — helicopters. Then, for a visit to the Cathedral (everyone else was at the Parade). While it’s stunning, we’ve been to so many churches these days that it was a bit (dare I say) underwhelming. Back to the Louvre to see the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo. And to the park for more sailboat watching before heading to the local Carnival. We had amazing views of Paris from the sky high ferris wheel.

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How fun! G planned an amazing birthday weekend, but the highlight was definitely the 5 course dinner on a boat along the Seine at sunset. Followed by fireworks viewed from inside our glass-roofed boat (30-40 minutes!), a bit of dancing (they even played our song), and finally a bit of revelry with the locals below the Eiffel Tower as the games came to an end. The bongo players and wine made for a beautiful end to an amazing 30 years.

See additional photos from our weekend in Paris.

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