Hitch Hiker’s Guide to Moscow

Imagine my surprise on Monday as we stood outside a popular Moscow restaurant and I learned from my colleague that we would hitch a ride back to the hotel. With three people in our group, we stood on the curb doing our best to grab passing drivers’ attention. Within two minutes, four cars had stopped. Question 1: are you going near our hotel. Question 2: how much will it cost. With the location and price agreed and a car to fit three passengers (amongst sippy cups, baby seats and discarded magazines), we were on our way.

So, taxis. A valuable window into the Moscow economy. In most markets (like London and NY), there are two safe options. Option one is preferred, but comes at a premium—the company car. A person waits for you and personally delivers you to your destination (generally in a luxury car). The second option is the Yellow Cab. You just walk out and grab one—they’re accredited and licensed and generally safe and fair.

In Moscow, however, I was treated to paradigm shift. Here, private cars are commonplace but private vehicles take the place of the yellow cab. If you haven’t pre-booked a company car, you must stand on the side of the road and flag down a ride. It’s similar to hitch hiking in the US, but way more folks stop to help. When folks stop you discuss where you’re going and if it’s on their way and payment. So long as they’re going your way (generally), the cost of the lift is generally a quarter or half of the cost of a private pre-booked car. And for the locals, it’s a great way for them to fund their car payment and fuel costs. And, to the passenger’s benefit hitching costs a half to quarter of what pre-booked cars may.

Not generally to go along with the flow on potentially life-threatening arrangements, I initially questioned the safety of this option. Apparently it’s mainstream and the only way to get home if not convenient to public transport.
Welcome to Moscow where the upper and lower ranges are covered, but the middle has yet to be activated.
The appears to be true of local hotels. When booking through our corporate agent, there’s a conference in town and so every available option was in the neighbourhood of 16,000 rubles (ie ~£320 or $640). Not wanting to spend so much on accommodation, I asked that they keep looking. FINALLY, they found an acceptable hotel with a room rate of £150 ($300 per night). Anything less expensive would have been scarily inadequate…a la Bates Motel. The Mid-market hasn’t yet been activated. There’s a huge market opportunity for motivated entrepreneurs.

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Surrealism

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Have you ever so abruptly arrived someplace that it takes a little while to believe you’re there? As we’ve been travelling so much for work and pleasure recently, we’ve had limited time to prepare ourselves—in some cases, places we would never have dreamed possible just a few years ago. To be fair, it often doesn’t hit us until after we leave the destination.

Moscow was one of those places for me. As a kid, Russia was always in the news. Sometimes for good things…often times not. To me, it was a place of fun, Disney colored domes and churches, strong hardy people and if describing as a color I’d have to say steel gray to London’s blue green. Granted, that impression has changed a bit since I began working with our brilliant and accomplished Russian client—through her stories and optimism, my impression has gradually adjusted.

After being in Moscow for nearly a week, I now realize that Moscow is more similar than different to the major US cities. Here’s why:

  • Most of the city’s colonial and historic development was levelled during duelling administrations. As a result, most building are new (ala 1900’s).
  • The people are optimistic and kind. While they aren’t of the American pro-active ‘ how can I help you’ variety, anyone will help you however possible when asked—going out of their way to assist.
  • Products. They have many of the same brands that we love in the US. There are certainly new, local players that they will select, but the brand landscape isn’t nearly as dramatically different as I initially dreamed.

If I had failed to notice the written and spoken language differences, I could easily think that I had time travelled to Minneapolis or Detroit in the 1990s.

Click here to see more photos from Moscow

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Welcome to Moscow

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It was shortly past 10 o’clock when we arrived in the Red Square. The dark sky had a blue luster from the sun just below the horizon. As we passed through the Resurrection Gate, the square unfolded in front of us. The majestic old state department store “GUM” on the left. The imposing wall of the Kremlin to the right. And straight ahead the brightly colored illuminated onion domes of St. Basil’s cathedral. We were really in Moscow.

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Following a stroll around the square to take it all in, we tried our first sample of Moscow’s cuisine. Expecting it to be similar to the plain Polish cuisine we were pleasantly surprised with a pair of tasty dishes. I had a home roast which consisted of beef, potatoes, onions covered in a creamy sauce served in a small ceramic pot.

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Sunday we hit the tourist circuit starting with St. Basil’s cathedral and then the Kremlin. We found it odd that a place representing such political power was dominated by churches and chapels — especially since religion has been illegal for most of the last 100 years. I pondered if that was by design to “distract” the tourist what really goes on there. K suggested that it is by calling on religion that leaders often justify they power. Or perhaps it is just that the churches are the only parts that aren’t “classified”.

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Just outside the Kremlin is Alexander Gardens a refreshing and well-enjoyed patch of green among the urban jungle. In the middle of the park an army band played and locals from 7 to 70 gathered around to listen and dance. Observing monuments for World War II reminded us that many of Russia’s brave young men met the same fate as ours defending their country from Nazi Germany. In fact it must have been frightening with the Germans made it to the edge of Moscow before being.

Oddly enough we discovered that sushi and Japanese food are wildly popular in Moscow. Any restaurant worth anything serves sushi. We tried a place near Alexander Gardens for a good dinner. Just as Americans have their own version of Chinese food Muscovites have their own take on sushi — such as dessert sushi. You would never see chocolate sushi in Japan!

While this was a holiday trip for me, it was a business trip for K. So Monday morning we split up as K headed to work and I flew solo as a tourist which was a first. But we both had our own unique experiences getting to know the locals. In our next two posts we’ll each bring you our experience and perspective.

(Also stay tuned for the post on the second half of our trip to Istanbul)

Click here to see additional photos from Moscow.

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Turkish Delights

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An early morning rise and a 3 hour flight, Istanbul greeted us by noon. In most of the cities we visit, taxi drivers speak English. Unfortunately for us, our Turkish cabbie did not. So, our first few miles from the airport will be remembered as our cabbie tried to look in his phrase book to answer a question while jockeying about on the highway. Luckily, we survived and things got better and better from there.

Upon arrival in the Old Town, our friendly cabbie expertly navigated the city’s maze-like streets. Tight turns and seeming deadends turned into bright lanes. Our hotel was quaint. With typical Turkish hospitatlity, we were greeted upon arrival with lemonade and yummy cookies. And the first call to prayer. A voice came over a loud speaker at a nearby mosque announcing it was time to pray. Welcome to Istanbul.

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Istanbul’s a beautiful, friendly cultural mecca. It’s home to countless age-old structures that date back to early AD. To them, something from the 1700’s is new. Upon arrival, Hagia Sophia was one of our first stops. This Christian Church turn Mosque is HUGE. It rivals the size of modern sports arenas….the ENTIRE Notre Dame Cathedral could fit inside., and the Statue of Liberty could easily do jumping jacks. Impressive. Especially considering its age. It’s ~1500 years old. Unlike modern sports arenas, it’s constructed of exquisite materials and showcases expert craftsmanship. Especially notable are the many tile mosaics within.

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Across the way, the newer Blue Mosque is similiarly awesome. As its name would hint, the interior of the structure is dominated by beautiful blue tile. And, as typical of their distinctive religious architecture, the mosques are surrounded by stone minarettes—originally used as stair wells for the prayer leaders to climb to announce the five daily calls to prayer. Though strikingly beautiful, the structure is built from moder modern materials as its only 400 years old.

Wandering the streets of the Old Town, we also lingered in the spice and household markets, sampled heavenly Baklava and apple tea (though only tourists have the apple tea J) and had an incredible seafood dinner in the City’s cistern (where they used to store the city’s water eons ago). The candlelight cistern was a pleasant treat.

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With a short walk down the hill from the old town, we arrived at Gallata Bridge which connects the new and the old towns. Fishermen keep one another company on the bridge as they fish for their dinner. The city’s bright blue Bosphorous is home to countless fish species. And also ferry boats galore J

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While one might think that the new town is in stark contrast to the old, it all felt pretty old to us by comparison…beautiful, but cultured and historic. We enjoyed walking the streets of the new district to take in the views, the shops and the busy bustle of locals doing their weekly jaunt. As we explored, we happened upon a cute little café tucked behind a row of businesses. This garden café was the perfect spot for a bit of lunch with a nice view…and aromas as its garden was overwhelmed by the scent of its many lemon blossoms.

While in Istanbul we tried many new culinary delights. Baklava is a specialty and while certainly crave it again. It’s mouth watering good. And the Turkish like their ice cream to have a bit of bounce…they add orchid extract to give it a bit of elasticity. It still melts and tastes the same, it’s just a bit firmer than usual. And quite good over a bit of fresh, warm baklava. And, of course, we tried the local favorite Turkish Delight, a nut paste called Havlas, mezes (Turkish tapas) and bagel rings. All good things.

The Turkish really know how to get the most of life. They appear to have a good work/home balance and value their rest time. Part of the full experience is having a Turkish bath. G and I decided to treat ourselves to this experience…I wish bathing were so much fun everyday! Look for more on the Turkish Bath experience and other Turkish surprises to come…

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Moscow this Weekend?

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My guess is that not many people decide to go to Moscow for a week on a whim. And I’m definitely not the whimsical kind of guy, but I decided this Wednesday to go to Moscow this weekend. Considering the paperwork required to make it happen, this isn’t a small decision, plus a I have never purchased major airline tickets within a day of traveling. K is traveling on business and I am going to tag along to avoid the cost of £400 per night hotel rooms. Apparently Moscow is one of the most expensive places in the world.Only a couple of our travels have required a visa, and they haven’t been too difficult to obtain. Russia, however, is a bit more bureaucratic. Before applying for a visa you must have an invitation. Then the invitation and supporting documentation for your trip (flights, hotel, itinerary, etc) must be provided when applying for a visa.

To complicate matters, it was surprisingly difficult to find quality information about the process online. I was a little worried about making mistakes on the form or not having the right payment when visiting the consulate. The information I did find was inconsistent and without credible sources. Even basic information such as how much it cost wasn’t available. The official site is sparse and Google turned up mainly visa services wanting to sell you their service.

As a quick aside – one of the great things about living in London is the ability to get a visa in a day. I just hopped on the tube and pop into the consulate in the morning and picked it up in the afternoon. I can’t imagine trying to get a Russian visa within 24 hours while we were in Raleigh.

I arrived this morning at the Russian Consulate about an hour before they opened and was pleasantly surprised to find that there were only about a dozen people in front of me. Contrast that to the Indian embassy where I arrived at 4am and stood behind about 50 people more insane (or desperate) than I. When 8:30 arrived the line moved forward and we started to file through the full height metal caged turnstile. There were no people to provide direction or welcome. Suddenly the gate stopped. The man two people in front of me in line pushed, but it wouldn’t budge. He turned back to the line and quipped, “I guess we wait.” We waited about 10 minutes before there was a buzz (and perhaps a muffled voice). The gate stated working again and we continued to file through.

The single room inside wasn’t large, but resembled an exquisite 18th century home with decorative molding, tall ceilings, in-laid paintings, and a full height mirror above an ornate fire place. Russian music leaked through the glass of the bank teller style windows. A glimpse behind revealed Russian ladies busily processing piles of paperwork. There was no chaos inside. The front gate handled the crowd control. After checking my paperwork and a few corrections I paid my fee and was on my way — just under 2 hours in all.
So, for anyone looking to get a quick visa from the Russian consulate in London, here are my tips…

First, if you need a no strings invitation, I got mine from this site. For $35 you can get it delivered instantly via email. Makes the whole process seem like a sham, huh?

I downloaded the visa application from rusemblon.org which is in fact the official site for the Russian consulate in London despite their statement that it is not a government site. The russian visa application requires practically a life history including job history, education history, and travel history. The consulate warns that you must use the form on their site, so be cautious if you go it elsewhere.

  • be sure to include phone numbers on the application. I got by with only city and state for the addresses but they did want phone numbers. There wasn’t space on the form, so they had me write them in at the bottom.
  • leave line 9 (Russian Institution to be visited) blank for tourist visa. I read this tip online and it worked fine.
  • arrive an hour ahead. The line was nowhere near as bad as for the India visa but there were about 50 people in line when I left an hour later and only one window inside.
  • the fee for a single entry visa I’d £45 and £95 for same day processing. Add £10 for double entry. They only accept cash.
  • the sign says handbags are not allowed but everyone took in messenger bags and purses without issue. Anything bigger won’t fit through the gate (with you) anyway.
  • you will need to return between 4 and 5 pm to pick up the visa. When I arrived at 4pm, there were 50 people in front of me in line. I got in about 4:45pm.

I’m looking forward to seeing Moscow. We’ll post all about it when we return.
* I wrote this on Wednesday. Needless to say it has been a busy week. Also we’ll post the details of our Istanbul trip up soon.

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Back from Istanbul

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We had a lovely weekend in Istanbul. A bit of sunshine and blue water do to the body good. We’ve just returned, but

For a sneak peak at the photos before full posts follow in the coming days, click here.

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Marathon of Travel Begins…

It was a long, quiet winter but as you could probably tell by our recent trips to Marrakech and Amsterdam, now that the weather has perked up and Spring has arrived, our travel schedule is gearing up! Stay tuned to the blog for updates in the coming weeks as we travel to:

Istanbul THIS Weekend

Moscow Tentatively Next Weekend [and most of the following week for work]

Lake Como Last Weekend in May

G’s parents will also visit on the weekend of the 18th. And I’m scheduled to travel to Paris and across the UK for work this month and next, but doubt I’ll see more than those Broccoli Fields and Office Blocks from the recent Munich and Frankfurt trips 🙂

We’ll continue to update the blog as we have photos and stories to share.

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