Tulips As Far As the Eye Can See

Well, almost 🙂

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Late last week, we ventured over to the Netherlands to enjoy the tulips in season and to catch up with G’s parents before they head off on a Scandinavian cruise. We chose Haarlem as our home base as it’s just a 20 minute train ride from Amsterdam, has plenty of eateries and good parking options and were pleased with our choice.Upon arrival at the airport, we took a bus 40 minutes to Amsterdam (didn’t want to change trains). Unfortunately though we were uncertain of where we had been let off.

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We wandered the streets of Haarlem quite turned around (we weren’t where we thought we were), but it was actually a grand introduction to the country’s amazingly friendly and helpful people. Not one, not two, but at least three strangers stopped to ask if we were lost as we were wandering the streets and to offer their assistance. As we had recently traveled to Marrakech where helpers expect compensation, we resisted at first but soon realized that the folks are simply being their friendly selves.

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Though Haarlem is generally a sleepy little town, as we walked up we noticed that a carnival had traveled to the central square for the Queen’s Day celebration and because Haarlem plays host to the area’s Dutch Flower Parade (kind of like the Rose Parade in the US except with bulb flowers instead of roses) which brings lots of visitors to the area.

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Our first day was spent wandering about Amsterdam. We took a canal boat to get our bearings (though I don’t know if I would do that again–would probably opt for renting bicycles for a couple hours instead next time around), walked about town, headed to the Van Gogh Museum to see an impressive collection of his masterpieces (including sunflowers, his self portrait and other notable ones) and picniced in Vondel Park. Then, over to the Ann Frank House (I really need to read her Diary now) and finally to dinner.

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And dinner was an interesting story. We dined at a restaurant near the Ann Frank house that’s recommended in the Rick Steves book. Funny thing…the wait for two double tables was shorter than the wait for a table for 4 so we opted for two tables stradling the main walkway into the restaurant. As such, I think the whole restaurant got the jist of our conversation and we made friends with an especially well named spaniel, trouble. Kids loved the restaurant’s red velvet curtains and used them to hide from curious parents. Drinking crowds came out for their Friday night binge…it was interesting and fun to site by the door stradling the walkway, we certainly gained some perspective on the Dutch spirit.

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Water’s everywhere in Amsterdam, it’s to be expected afterall. So it should be no great surprise that the city’s canals and streets are home to a plentitude of water foul. One especially friendly heron greeted us as we walked to dinner…I guess he picked up a bit of that friendly Dutch spirit from his human counterparts.When in Rome…or in this case Amsterdam, you have to visit all the sights. Next up red light district. Amsterdam’s the place where coffee shops don’t sell coffee (they sell a different kind of pick me up) and where prostitution is legal. Scantilly clad ladies dance in plate glass windows to solicit their ‘customers’. Unfortunately, these ladies aren’t marketing mavens…while some were attractive most were a bit round around the edges and didn’t necessarily dress to impress. Goodness! A well coiffed and toned girl could certainly give any one of the window girls a run for their money…though I suppose that’s not the point. Was a bit strange walking down the lane with G’s parents…but have to give G’s parents credit for being good sports. Sorry…no cameras allowed 🙂

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On Saturday, we rented a car and drove through the country side. First stop, Keukenhof Gardens in Lisse. Imagine, an amusement park for senior ladies with the gardening bug…Keukenhof is it. It’s a mecca for tour buses and there’s barely enough room to walk the sidewalks without running into others…but it was a worthwhile visit as here you can see all the new tulip cultivars in situ. Gorgeous!

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We left Lisse in search of the idealic dutch countryside and headed north to the area around De Rijp and Schermerhorn (30 minute drive from Haarlem). While Lisse’s tulip fields were manicured for the tour crowds and commercial operations, this area was where true farmers raised their crops surrounded by working windmills.

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We wandered our way through the countryside–not realizing how difficult it would be to find a restaurant open on Saturday! Dutch families value their family time and most restaurants are closed. Finally, we found a quaint eaterie with perfect sandwiches to keep us fueled. G’s dad had a croquette sandwich…YUM! It’s like a spiced tube of cheese and ham that they heat (to melt it all together) and serve on a buttered slice of toast. You roll-up the croquette inside the toast in order to eat it (kind of like a hot dog on toast only different). Big yum!

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Then, back to Haarlem where we cleaned up and headed off to the Dutch Flower Parade.Look for a second installment to follow tomorrow!

Or click here to see additional photos from the trip.

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