Travel For FOUR

As g and i recently started new jobs, we only had a week to spend in Scotland–making planning our Scotland trip a challenge. We had to select our Homebases carefully. 

One guide said Skye’s the highlight of any trio to Scotland. Another painted the scene as tour buses blocking the views for as far as the eye can see. We weren’t sure what to expect. So, given these competing guidebook reviews, we had to decide who to trust. Rick Steves won the toss. 

During our visit in early May, there were no tour buses to be found (though there was a small cruise ship in Portree). It was quiet and we had a wonderful stay. 

Once upon a time, the island could only be reached via a 30 minute ferry ride from the mainland. Recently, however, a modern bridge was constructed, so we opted to take the ferry up and the bridge back in order to see more of the surrounding countryside. 

The ferry dropped us just south of the dramatic Cullin mountains. These craggy juts are striking, at once they seem ominous and threatening, but also like the green hills of Virginia hills–seemingly easy to climb. We could see them in their entirety. And as their surface is marble (lending its hues), only shallow vegetation grows there. So, scrubby bushes and grass cling to the mountains…from a distance, it seems they’d be the perfect spot for the world’s longest log roll. Though, any such thought would be a grand mistake. 

Like northern Ireland, the soil in Skye (and around Oban, as well)  lends itself to peat bogs. This combined with the stone underground works to keeps vegetation low to the ground, water close to the surface–and makes trees hard to come by. The only trees (spruces, I think) seem to have been planted there in unnatural places and patterns tree farms) making the sheep seem more a natural part of the landscape than the trees. 

Together, the effect is of the English lake district super-sized. Lovely craggy mountains and hills are visible at every turn with varying rainbows of colour as they climb ever higher. And unlike the lovely vistas in Virginia, for example, the man made structures add to the beauty. Small cape cod esque atome croft houses all painted white. Not a subway or strip mall to be found. Uninterrupted beauty…nearly all with water views. 

The island is roughly 6-10 miles across (though much longer), so visitors are always within 5 miles of the sea. This was apparent during our 5 mile hike up and around Old Man of Storr. We were greeted with striking 360 degree water views after our 600-700 meter climb—one of the best hikes we’ve ever undertaken. The views were extraordinarily stunning.

Breakfasts at home, lunch picnics on the run and seafood dinners were our sustenance during our stay on Skye. We hired a furnished 2 bedroom flat during our stay and have been reminded that this type of arrangement works well with a little one in tow. W loved ambling about the flat and was more at ease with so few formal meals per day–as compared with our stay at a B&B in Oban. 

Aside from hiking, eating and driving (to take in the views), there’s not much to do on Skye. But for us, it was a gorgeous respite from the real world and a relaxing reminder to what the world was like before Walmart and Tesco. 

Just when we began to think Oban was an innocent seaside town with a perfectly boring history, we saw signs otherwise. 

There are the remnants of a coastal fortress. A couple memorials to battles long past. And sod ammunition bunkers. Lots of them. Trudging a bit further across the bay, human bones visible inside an above-ground tomb. 

Though Oban’s a picturesque seaside village today, it was once a stronghold in the allies’ efforts to thwart u-boats and hold off the axis efforts to invade the UK during WWII. 

Today, it’s a shining vision of the good life in the north. There’s a Michelin restaurant, good hiking trails on an island across the bay, fresh seafood, easy access to distant isles, a new leisure and sports centre, a village bowling green and a lovely bay. The perfect type of place to spend a few days. 

And though I was sceptical of a crowded dance festival which would be in town during our stay, it turned out to be a lovely addition to our activity list. Though the Scottish dancing festival seemed a bit like something like an American beauty pageant, it was nice to witness all the brightly-clad dancers going about their dances in all their regalia. 

We took in a show (music and dance), went to a concert (violin and accordion), visited a couple islands (Luing and Easdale), drove across the world’s smallest bridge over the Atlantic, ate our weight in Scottish breakfasts, fresh seafood and local chocolates, and marvelled at the fiery sunsets. 

For me, the energetic lambs (spring is lambing season) and  tiny ferries from isle to isle were the best bits of the stop. But our friendly match on the local bowling lawn and our hike about the Isle of Kerrera were also hard to beat. 

Oban treated us well…so well that it was hard to leave. Little did we realise that Skye would soon deliver a completely different vision of Scotland, stunning landscapes not to be outdone. 

Golf. Deer. Scotch whiskey. And maybe castles. 

That’s what the word Scotland brought to mind for me. So, when A&V (G’s parents) floated the idea of going to Scotland together (years ago), I was indifferent. I’m not a great golfer, I like deer, but hate whiskey and think castles are generally touristy. But, we finally relented. If the Queen likes it and it means so much to A & V…why not. 

So, off we went.

Have you ever taken a sleeper train? We have a few times now, but they never seem to lose their charm (for me). There’s something about those tiny bunks stowed away in closets with miniature sinks that excites me; I feel like a Polly Pocket doll somehow. So, we took the sleeper from Euston to Fort William. We were off on the ‘right foot’ then.  ;) 

We left at 9pm and arrived by 10 the next morning. There were deer nibbling outside the window at first glance (check!), but also something which I hadn’t accounted for. Stunning views around every bend. And when I say stunning, I’m not exaggerating (though I’ll admit I usually do). Iaw-drop worthy beauty. And we consider ourselves widely traveled. These were superlative views! No strip malls. No superstores. No eyesores. Every scene was rugged. And beautiful. 

Bogs. Sheep. Shaggy cows. Mountains. [Ok…maybe castles, too…]

These are the things which now come to mind when I hear the word ‘Scotland’.

A year or so ago, a good friend gushed about how much her first born’s birthday meant to her. To her, it was a major milestone in life and in her motherhood experience. To me, it was important to celebrate the day, but before this conversation, I had never even considered how w’s birthdays would go. No pressure then! 😉

When I was very young, my mom always made a cake. She’d taken a Wilton decorating course and is a good cook, so the cake was beautiful and delicious…and we were always surrounded by family and showered with gifts. It was an excuse to have people over and we always had fun with our cousins and grandparents around. That it was a family event made sense because with two large families of 20+ members each on both my mom’s and dad’s sides, every Saturday night and Sunday lunch was spent at my grandparents’ house.Our family were our closest friends. 

Having grown up on a farm with mountain views and nature galore and with a summer birth date, I guess I also subconsciously believed that birthdays should be spent outside, taking in lovely views, fresh air and nature. 

So. Pondering this in February and consulting g for his expectations (none aside from including his mom and dad), we came up with a plan. Go to the coast, hike and have a picnic with cupcakes to fit the theme (whatever theme that would be). 

So, we researched. I wanted to stay in a lighthouse on the southcoast, but they didn’t allow children. So, we began to dig deeper and found a lovely little area by the sea called East Dean. They have high, white chalky cliffs, are just off the South Down’s Way (a hiking trail), are an hour’s train ride from London, have a sheep centre open to visitors and a pub with rooms and an award-winning restaurant. Voila!

We traveled down on the train on a Thursday after work, got up the next morning to blue skies and sunny weather and went about our birthday festivities. W made friends with at least 4 dogs on our hike, licked a few salty rocks on the shore, fed a lamb its bottle and made friends with some locals. We ate sheep cupcakes lovingly prepared by us (W and I).  Nature. Scenic views. Extended family. And a bit of fresh air. 

It was a day for our memory book and all that we hoped it would be. We feel blessed to have little w in our lives…now onto month 13 and beyond! Every day is a little photo-filled celebration…ahhh, life as the first born. 

Whew! Parenthood is magical…but it’s not easy.

For years, we’ve always wondered why couples disappear into an abyss for the first year of their child’s life. Ignorantly, we thought they were cocooning because they couldn’t bear to be away for a night without baby. Like most things in life, it’s impossible to understand without walking in their shoes. Now we have. And we understand!

While we have done our best to keep at least a chalk outline of our past life in play by hiring sitters, we’ve spent most of the last 10 months figuring out a new rhythm as a family of three. But, just when we figure things out and get into a routine, everything changes. For example…

• At three months, he slept through the night for a week solid. We smugly thought we had ‘this sleeping thing’ licked. Then, teething began and we traveled to the States, back to 3 hour spans.
• At six months, we had breastfeeding down pat. Then, we introduced solids (highly recommend baby-led weaning) and changed our eating habits to accommodate W’s allergies (peanut, soy, milk (and milk products), tomatoes, kiwi?, strawberries, eggs). This was a biggie. We’ve completely overhauled our diet. As a result of this and breastfeeding, K’s back down to her wedding day weight…and sneaking cake to keep from disappearing.
• At seven months, G’s job was a nightmare. In preparation for launch, he had to work night and day for a couple weeks, leaving K at home with W 24 hours a day, just when W was going through teething (again). We were all spent and grumpy as a result. We didn’t recover until Christmas.
• At eight months, he was mobile and began to move his toys about our tiny flat. Nothing would stay (does stay) where you leave it. Trust me when I say that this is a HUGE milestone for parents who have a slight control-freak bent. 🙂
• At nine months, K increased her workload from 1 day a week to 3 days a week. Now, there’s less time for her to pick up the toys, wipe food from the walls and sort out allergy-friendly menus.
• At ten months, W routinely reorganises drawers which can’t be childproofed. Finding tights and tube cards is now a bit of an ordeal which involves searching under the bed and squinting in dark corners for 5 minutes.

It’s worth it. There’s no disputing that. But it’s these little things which have soaked up the time that we used to use for blogging. Well, this and the fact that I now send G hourly emails (when I’m with W and he isn’t) complete with photos and comments from W regarding what W’s up to. And photo uploads for grandparents via Mobile Me have taken time, as well. Alas…here we are.

So. 10 months in. How has parenthood changed us.

For me, K, motherhood has made me more laid-back (to some extent). My feeling is, why fret about things I can’t control? Though, I still fret about things out and about in places they shouldn’t be (like the plastic storage containers and mixing bowls in the middle of the family room/dining area because W’s keen to play with them….or vitamin bottles in the hall because W likes the sound they make). Overall, our small flat is beginning to feel way too small now that W is mobile. Come on Spring park-weather days!

I still, generally, do my hair and make-up. But, I no longer wear dry-clean only clothes. And, at times, I am one of those embarrassing moms who have food on them! I could change, but our washer/dryer takes 4 hours; I figure getting dirty comes with the territory. And, finally, I see way less of my friends as they’ve either moved, or leave drinks by the time I’m able to switch with G and make my way out…with a few exceptions.

I’ll have to let G weigh-in independently on how fatherhood has changed him…